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1 Answer

Tyvek reinvent battens

Anyone have experience with this product? I'm considering using it as furring strips over roxul comfortboard and under lp smartside. I'm a little concerned about termites with regular wood furring strips even though I've read that is not a problem. Termites are nasty in MO. Thanks

Asked By user-7088022 | Jun 23 18
1 Answer

Fastening Exterior pine trim to an ICF home

This is my first ICF build and getting ready to fasten exterior pine trim boards to my ICF home. I don't want to strap it out unless absolutely necessary. I was planning on using a membrane like Blue-Skin behind the pine. Has anyone had any experience good or bad with pine trim boards on ICF

Asked By Wayde | Jun 23 18
10 Answers

Thermal bridging solutions when closed-cell foam is used?

What is the best way to handle the thermal bridging of the wood framing of my house -- recognizing that some closed cell foam is specified for the wall cavities? We are constructing a house in climate zone 5 with 2x6 studs using the "hybrid wall assembly" as defined by Joe Lstiburek in his article "Hybrid Attics and Hybrid Walls." I have seen no comments about managing thermal bridging using this type of wall system.

Asked By Judy5 | Jun 21 18
1 Answer

Roofing without sheathing

We are currently doing a retrofit that includes a vented attic with lots of cellulose. The baffles will be ripped PIC with FG facings. The current roof is metal over 2x3 (actual) battens with no underlayment. In the next year or two we will need to replace the roofing. For some of the other details we are working out now, I want to make sure I know how we will be handling the roofing when it comes time. So here is the catch, do we need to sheath if we already have the battens? So far I have come up with 4 options:

Asked By Matthew Michaud | Jun 22 18
2 Answers

Best practices for fastening lath / 3-coat stucco over rigid foam

There seems to be some debate over how to anchor 3-coat stucco over rigid foam while maintaining <1/64 deflection to avoid cracking. It seems that for:

<=1" Foam, Standard Wide Crown 2" Staples into Studs are Adequate
2" Foam, Lathe & Plaster Washers and 4" #10 Screws every 6"
4" Foam, Furring strips or add additional OSB/CDX Sheathing over Foam and staple lath

My question is,

1. What would you all recommend for 1-1/2" Foam (R-Max Polyiso)?

2. Would there be any advantage to a hybridized system of staples and screws/washers - i.e. screws every 12", staples every 4"

Asked By Zane Bridgers | Jun 21 18
9 Answers


Hello all.

I am building a house in a hurricane/northeaster prone area of Virginia, and in an area that has potential for flooding to boot.

Keeping in mind that i dont have an unlimited budget, what do you think would be the best long-term, flood resistant, hurricane resistant home?

I love the idea of SCIP, but im not sure i can find skilled shotcrete people and the cost looks prhibitive

I like SIP, but i worry about flooding and hurricane resistance.

Im leaning towards ICF, but thinking it may be cheaper (and maybe "just as good") to just to build CMU with foamboard

Asked By user-7043474 | Jun 20 18
7 Answers

Unorthodox foamless insulation system

I've been a long time reader and spent countless hours on BSC trying to learn all I can on building science. The biggest thing I've learned is how much I didn't know. Long story short...we have been making improvements to our home, some cosmetic and some as efficiency when they align. This winter our dated central air heat pump tried to catch on fire(long strory) and after a few months of research we successfully replaced it with three mini splits and they are fantastic! It was unplanned but extremely successful.

Asked By Russell Boudreau | Jun 19 18
40 Answers

Brick house insulation

First of all, I wanted to wish everyone Happy and Prosperous New Year!
I would like to ask for an advice regarding a wall cavity composition. I am in Westchester County, 30 miles north of New York City, climate zone 4. I am about to acquire a brick house (tiny brick, maybe 2-3 inches thick). Single wythe, I believe. I think that brick is just decorative and is not load bearing at all. Only cinder blocks in the basement support the floor joists. Second floor ceiling joists are supported by wood framing.

Asked By Sebastian Smith | Dec 29 17
14 Answers

Roof / wall connection showing vent above structural sheathing

I know this has been discussed a thousand times here but each situation is unique and I find that answers seem to vary depending upon the mood of the commentator.

I had previously developed a similar detail as the one shown which had furring strips below the sheathing allowing the vent channel to run below the sheathing but I believe this introduces a whole host of problems not the least of which is an area of loose fabric above my dense packed rafters which overtime could become home to a whole host of critters which might then crawl though it.

Asked By Ethan T | Jun 15 18
3 Answers

Shingles over rainscreen over Roxul

Any tips on installing shingles (cedar or fiber-cement) over a rain screen, which is installed over 1.5" of exterior mineral wool? I was thinking vertical furring strips fastened to the studs, then horizontal furring strips on top of those to provide a shingle nail base. Sounds like a lot of extra work but the only other way I've seen (in one of Martin's articles) is to install horizontal strips with dado cuts on the back, which sounds like even more work.

Asked By Phil Boutelle | Jun 1 18
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